Diamond Glossary

(See Illustration Below For a Visual Representation of the Glossary)

AGS-American Gem Society
A professional jeweler's society founded in 1934. AGS has a laboratory which grades diamonds and offers a diamond grading report. AGS has a diamond cut grading system for round diamonds.
AGS Cut Grading Scale
0 Ideal
1 Excellent
2 Very Good
3-4 Good
5-7 Fair
8-10 Poor
Bezel Facet
On a round brilliant diamond, these are eight large kite-shaped facets on the crown. Also called top main facet.

Brightness
The appearance, or extent, of internal and external reflections of "white" light seen in a polished diamond when it is viewed face-up.   The appearance, or extent, of spots of light dispersed into spectral colors seen in a polished diamond when it is viewed face-up.

Brilliance
Describes the reflections of white light coming from the diamond. It is an essential attribute of a beautiful diamond and it has 2
components; brightness and contrast It appears brighter, especially when it is moved because it 'scintillates'.
Brilliant Cut Diamond
Round diamond with 57 facets (58 if there is a culet). Round Brilliant cut diamonds are more brilliant than any of the fancy-shaped stones.

Carat
Carat is the standard unit of measurement of the weight of a diamond. One carat equals 1/5 of a gram or 1/142 of an ounce. 1 carat=100 points

Cavity
A type of inclusion consisting of a large or deep opening in the diamond is called a cavity.

Clarity
Diamond Clarity refers to the absence of internal inclusions or external blemishes. Because they are created deep within the earth, most diamonds contain unique birthmarks called inclusions (internal) and blemishes (external). Diamonds with very few birthmarks are rare and, of course, rarity affects a diamond's value. Using the International Diamond Grading System(tm), created by GIA, diamonds are given a clarity grade that ranges from flawless (FL) to diamonds with more prominent inclusions (I3). Every diamond is unique. But none are absolutely perfect even though some
come close, even under 10X magnification. Known as flawless diamonds, they are exceptionally rare. Most jewelers have never even see one. The GIA Clarity Scale contains 11 grades, with most readily available diamonds falling into the VS or SI categories. In determining a clarity grade, GIA considers the size, nature, position, color or relief, and quantity of clarity characteristics visible under 10x magnification. NADB only
represents diamonds with clarity grades ranging from Flawless to SI2.

* Flawless (FL)
No inclusions or blemishes are visible to a skilled grader
using 10× magnification
* Internally Flawless
No inclusions and only minor blemishes are visible to a
skilled grader using 10× magnification
* Very, Very Slightly Included (VVS1andVVS2)
Inclusions are difficult for a skilled grader to see under
10× magnification
* Very Slightly Included (VS1andVS2)
Inclusions are clearly visible under 10× magnification but
can be characterized as minor
* Slightly Included (SI1andSI2)
Inclusions are noticeable to a skilled grader using 10×
magnification
* Imperfect (I1,I2,andI3)
Inclusions are obvious under 10× magnification and may
affect transparency and brilliance

Cleavage
A break in a diamond which is parallel to one of its crystallographic planes. A cleavage may be caused by inherent internal strain or by a sharp blow. The break may extend to the surface of a diamond.
Cloud
A group of tiny, white inclusions which give a "cloudy" appearance.
GIA Diamond Color-Grading Scale
The GIA's Diamond Color-Grading Scale is the industry's most widely accepted grading system. The scale begins with the letter D, representing colorless, and continues, with increasing presence of color, to the letter Z. Diamonds are color-graded by comparing them to stones of known color under controlled lighting and precise viewing conditions. Many of these color distinctions are so subtle that they are invisible to the untrained eye. But these slight color differences make a very big difference in diamond quality and price. NADB only represents diamonds with colors ranging from D to J.
Crown
The part of the diamond that is above the girdle. It consists of the table and the crown facets below it.
Crown Angle
The angle measured between the girdle plane and the bezel facets. Along with the table size, the crown angle helps determine the amount of dispersion displayed by the diamond.
Crown Height
The part of the diamond that is above the girdle.
Crown Height %
The crown height expressed as a percentage of the average girdle diameter.
Crystal
A type of inclusion. A crystal is a mineral deposit trapped inside the diamond.

Culet
The point on the bottom of a diamond's pavilion is called a culet (pronounced que-let or the French sounding que-lay). During the manufacturing process, the culet is often polished as a flat facet so that it does not get chipped as the other facets are polished. These days the cutter usually 'closes' this facet to a point, but sometimes it remains as a small extra facet; this is not so bad because it protects the culet from chipping as the diamond is handled and while the jeweler is setting the stone.

The culet size is listed on a cert and your diamond's culet should be pointed (no culet), very small, small or medium because these are
not visible to the naked eye.

Large to extremely large culets may be visible to the naked eye and can look like an inclusion.

Cut
The cut (make) of a diamond refers to the proportions given to the polished diamond by the diamond cutter. The cut is the most important of the 4Cs (cut, color, clarity, carat) in determining the diamond's overall beauty.

Dealer Asking Price
This is the price the dealer or owner would like to sell the diamond for.
We are often able to negotiate a lower selling price for our clients.
Depth %
Total depth (measured from the table plain to the culet) relative to the average diameter. Reported to the nearest tenth of a percentage point (0.1%).
Depth Percentage
The depth of the diamond divided by the average width.
Dispersion
The fiery, rainbow colors emanating from a diamond as white light is broken-up into colors.
Facet
The polished planes on the surface of a diamond are the facets.
Feather
A fracture in a diamond that looks like a white feather.
Fire
The appearance, or extent, of spots of light dispersed into spectral colors seen in a polished diamond when it is viewed face-up.
Fluorescence
Is the property in many diamonds that makes them glow in an environment rich in ultraviolet light. Diamonds can fluoresce in a number of colors, but generally all but blue are to be avoided. Faint to medium fluorescence is rarely detected under ordinary lighting conditions. Strong or very strong fluorescence may make a diamond appear "milky" or "oily", especially in sunlight. Blue fluorescence may enhance the color of diamonds rated "H" in color or below (I,J, etc.) by hiding their yellow tint. Diamonds rated D-F with medium+ fluorescence may sell at a discount.
Fracture
A chip or break on a diamond that is not in the direction of a cleavage plane. Irregular in shape, they usually appear step-like or as a splinter.

GIA-GTL
Gemological Institute of America Gem Trade Lab. The well-respected independent laboratory which grades diamonds and includes a diamond grading report with each diamond.

Girdle
The outer edge of a diamond which forms a band around the stone. The girdle can be faceted, polished or unpolished

Girdle Thickness
Described and reported by the GIA Laboratory as a range from the thinnest to the thickest areas. Descriptions include extremely thin, very thin, thin, medium, slightly thick, thick, very thick, and extremely thick.

Diamond Grading Report
Sometimes called a "certificate", although labs do not "certify" diamonds. The grading report, issued by an independent laboratory, should accurately describe the proportions, weight, color, clarity, symmetry, polish and possible fluorescence seen in the diamond being evaluated. Some labs such as GIA and AGS are felt by many experts to be more consistent and stringent in their grading than some other labs.
Inclusion
A naturally-occurring imperfection in a diamond. Some examples are: feathers, crystals, needles, clouds and pinpoints.
Length-To-Width Ratio
A comparison of the length and width of the girdle outline on fancy-shaped diamonds. The ratio is found by dividing the length of the diamond by the width. The width is always stated as 1. Some L to W ratios are considered to be more appealing than others, but this is a matter of personal preference.
Pear 1.50 - 1.75 : 1
Marquise 1.75 - 2.25 : 1
Heart 1.00 - 1.02 : 1
Oval 1.33 - 1.66 : 1
Emerald 1.50 - 1.75 : 1
Radiant/Princess 1.00 - 1.05 : 1
Lower-Girdle Facet
The facets on the pavilion of a round brilliant just below the girdle.
Natural
These blemishes can be found on some polished diamonds when some of the rough is left on the diamond. This is often done so the cutter can maximize weight in a diamond.
Pavilion
The portion of the diamond below the girdle.
Pavilion Angle
The angle measured between the girdle and the pavilion main facet.
Pavilion Main Facet
The eight facets found on the pavilion of a round brilliant diamond. Their points touch the girdle.
Pinpoints
Very small inclusions in a diamond.
Points
1/100th of a carat. For example, a 1/4 carat diamond weighs 25 points.

Polish
Polish is graded the same way as symmetry: Excellent, Very Good, Good, Fair or Poor on a GIA report. AGS add their 'Ideal' Polish to the above list.

Poorly polished facets may reduce the intensity of light reflected from, or refracted into and out of a diamond. Labs assess polish by examining the diamond, facet by facet, with reflected and a microscope; you or I may not see any difference. But there is a price difference. At NADB we choose to sell only diamonds with Very Good or Excellent polish grades.

Scintillation
Sparkle: The appearance, or extent, of spots of light seen in a polished diamond when it is viewed face-up that flash as the diamond, observer, or
light source moves.
Pattern: The relative size, arrangement, and contrast of bright and dark areas that result from the internal and external reflections
seen in a polished diamond when it is viewed face-up while that diamond is still or moving.
Star Facet
One of the eight triangular facets found on the upper crown section (next to the table) of a brilliant-cut diamond.
Diamond Symmetry
Most labs grade diamond symmetry as Excellent, Very Good, Good, Fair or Poor. On a GIA report, the basis of lab grading includes microscopic examination to ensure that facets meet perfectly; this can result in very different results. At NADB we choose to sell only diamonds with Very Good or Excellent symmetry grades.
Table
The largest facet which sits on top of a diamond. This is where most of the light enters and exits a diamond.
Table %
Round Brilliants - Average table size relative to the average diameter, reported to the nearest whole percentage point (1%).
Fancy Shapes - Average table size relative to the width or shortest distance across the top, reported to the nearest whole percentage point (1%).

Total Depth %
Total depth (measured from the table plain to the culet) relative to the average diameter.
Reported to the nearest tenth of a percentage point (0.1%).

Diamond Upper-Girdle Facet
One of the 15 facets found on the lower crown portion of the diamond (abutting the girdle).

Diamond Anatomy

Learn all about diamonds at North American Diamond Brokers
Information courtesy of the GIA and Pricescope.com

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